Pleat: Textile Design

Leanne Zilka

This essay is an excerpt of Floppy Logic by Leanne Zilka, published by Actar Publishers.

This chapter discusses a series of projects that revolve around the Pleat, a fashion and textile technique I have explored to develop an understanding around where fashion, textile design can be used to develop architecture, and how the differences in these approaches can be used to develop an architecture that considers material, structure, skin and form at the same time and not a separate processes. Through the design and fabrication explorations of the Pleat, I have applied the lessons learned from the previous collaborations with fashion and textile design, discarded peripheral directions, and established a way of operating for future projects. The projects discussed in this chapter include the Pleat Pod, Pleat Pavilion and Pleatent. These projects have used the process of developing smaller tests or croquis developed through the collaborations to inform the larger architectural propositions of the Pleat projects. The images in this section document the processes taken, problems encountered and resolutions to communicate the benefits and possibilities of working in the space between fashion, textile design and architecture.

Peat tests during development of the PlestPod © Leanne Zilka
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[1] Picken, M. B. 1973. The Fashion Dictionary: Fabric, Sewing, and Apparel as Expressed in the Language of Fashion. Rev. and Enl. ed. New York: Funk & Wagnalls. p256-257
[2] Bohnenberger, S from Bollinger Grohman. engineering firm located in Melbourne. Bohnenberger completed the digital structural simulation of the PleatPod to text for stability
[3] Herpen, I. V. and Widrig, D. 2011. Crystallisation. Capriole Collection Paris Haute Couture wek: 3d printed garment